A quick and easy method of getting the front wheels running true to the rear is to now place a straight edge across the front of the kart (resting on the king pin bolts) then adjust tie-rod length so the axle part of each stub is parallel with the straight edge. Don't worry if one tie-rod ends up longer than the other. Most karts have the steering column located off centre which calls for uneven length tie-rods. You now have a 'square' kart with all four wheels pointing in the same direction, ready for the finer front-end adjustment.

Several methods exist, the most common being alloy wheel alignment plates or discs available from most kart shops. The most elaborate, and arguably the most accurate, are gadgets such as the amazing Sniper laser system, Exac-Toe and Triton, but a pretty good job can still be done with standard alignment plates, or even just a pen and tape measure. 

Fit whatever equipment you will be using and measure the distance across the front and across the back of the alignment plates/wheels. (The Sniper system has it's own built-in grid on the side of each unit for this, so no measuring is needed.) Make sure the tape measure has a straight run from one side to the other. If it's kinked to clear a crash bar or fuel tank, the measurements will not be correct. Adjust each tie rod the same distance (to prevent toe-in on one wheel and toe-out on the other) and keep checking the measurements until you arrive at the amount of distance you require, eg the measurement across the front would need to be 2mm more than across the back to achieve 2mm of toe-out. Camber can be set in exactly the same way, except the plates need to be turned 90 degrees so measurements can be taken across the top and bottom. It's now time to tighten the locking nuts and recheck the toe setting to make sure nothing has moved. 

If you don't own any special equipment, using a pen or tape mark on each front tyre is still a pretty good method, although it can be not quite as accurate and you'll need a second person to hold the tape measure. Simply mark the tyre tread (or put a fine pen mark on some race tape and stick this to the tyre tread) and use a tape measure between the two reference points. Simply revolve the wheel 180 degrees to take the front and rear measurements. 

When locking up rod-ends, make sure that the tie-rod is still free to move, ie, no components bind up when the steering is turned from lock to lock. Also check that the inspection holes in the rod-ends or tie rods with some thin gauge wire to make sure you haven't run out of adjustment. Whenever camber or caster adjustment are made, or if you bend or replace any component in the steering, you will need to do another front-end alignment. 

What is the best toe-out setting? What is the magic number? There isn't one. The general opinion is that 1 to 2mm toe out is correct for dry weather conditions on most karts, but check with your kart dealer or manufacturer for the correct settings for your chassis make and model. Keep in mind too that when setting the front-end with the kart on the stand you are setting the 'static' toe. This can possibly change when the kart is on the ground with a driver onboard and systems such as Sniper can measure the difference between the 'static' and 'loaded' settings.

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